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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pichon-Lalande has a very beguiling bouquet with a very expressive Merlot at the moment. There is a sense of warmth coming through, touches of liquorice and allspice, although it remains delineated and intense. The palate is medium-bodied with those subtle marine influences that I have observed in previous bottles. I was maybe expecting…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot; 73 IPT; 3.73 pH; 13.6% alcohol) Dark red. Flowers, sour red fruits, menthol and a hint of gunflint on the nose and palate. Offers modest nuance and lift, but seems a bit hollow in the mid-palate, showing only moderate concentration…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

Hints of caramel, orange peel, apricot jam and spice run through the 1989 Cristal. Ample, creamy and generous, the 1989 is in great shape today. The slightly forward aromas and flavors suggest the 1989 has arrived at a plateau of maturity. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade or so, although the…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a blend of 51% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 6% cabernet) Deep ruby. Pretty floral nose combines spicy blackcurrant and smoky plum aromas with a hint of black pepper. Sweet and fairly deep, with brooding, slightly aggressive flavors of dark cherry and blueberry. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and a note of austerity that I…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 La Mission Haut-Brion has an open, feisty, lively bouquet with blackberry, briary, cedar, black olive and a light seaweed (Japanese nori) aroma. This is wonderful, an intoxicating bouquet. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very focused with good weight and structure. This is a very convincing showing, at…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby-purple. Expressive aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, underbrush, smoke and minerals. Juicy, spicy and on the lean side, but with excellent firmness and lift to the dark berry, tar and tobacco flavors. This gained considerable mid-palate sweetness and pliancy with air. But almost austere today on the minerally finish, which features ripe tannins and impressively…