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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Knockout smoky nose of cedar, leather, earth, truffle and game. Then rather tightly coiled and far less pliant than the nose would suggest. Strong acids contribute to this wine rather powerful structure. But I don’t find the flesh shown by the best wines from this vintage. Finishes quite firm, youthfully backward and…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1989 Yquem is my favourite of the triumvirate and this bottle was stellar. It explodes from the glass with scents of quince, acacia, honeysuckle, saffron and wild heather (a trait that I have observed previously). What marks this out is the stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with tangerine, fig, marmalade and quince. A…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Laid-back, extremely young aromas of honey, creme caramel, smoke and earth; essence of semillon. Rich, large-scaled and powerful; really expands in the mouth. Lovely harmonious acidity and bright notes of orange peel and minerals give this very youthful wine great clarity of flavor. Classy and impeccably balanced. The subtle, oak-spicy, nutty finish goes on and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good saturated ruby-red. Tight nose hints at currant and smoky oak. Highly concentrated, densely packed and built to age. As young as it is, it also shows a lovely velvety texture rare for this vintage. Finishes with terrific breadth, subtle minerality and noble tannins. I’ve been a fan of this wine since the outset.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Mouton-Rothschild, which was made by the late Patrick Leon, has a well-defined bouquet with pretty blackberry and graphite scents, quite precise and focused. This has matured well in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with a cohesive entry, youthful, not amazingly complex and perhaps towards the end the limitations of the growing season impinge…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 10% cabernet franc) Inky purple. Moderately intense aromas of redcurrant, coffee and cocoa lifted by a floral quality. Chewy on entry, with good dense mid-palate fruit of excellent concentration, but pronounced acidity gives the red berry flavors an almost tart quality. The persistent finish features saline…