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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Dark red-ruby. Plum, chocolate and some exotic smoky oak on the nose. Lush, smooth and sweet but not at all over the top; offers unusual volume and breadth for Branaire. The exotic aspect carries through on the palate, and yet this wine is holding plenty of material in reserve. Finishes with building tannins and excellent…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good medium red. Very ripe, almost liqueur-like aromas of plum and nuts; lower-pitched than the 2009 Barbaresco classico. Fat, sweet and filled in but less expressive today than the Barbaresco. Plenty of flesh and backbone. Here the tannins arrive later and build. Seems the ripest of these 2009s.

Piemonte: 2009 and 2010 Barbaresco Plus Other New Releases (Oct 2012)

The overt fruit and depth typical of Costa Russi comes through in spades in the 2009. Plums, black cherries, chocolate and new leather form the core of this round, expressive Costa Russi. As beautiful as this is, the 2009 remains deeply marked by the vintage. There is plenty of beauty and richness in the glass,…

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

The 2012 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is striking. Mocha, plums, roasted coffee beans, espresso, dark red fruit and smoke are some of the notes that meld together in the glass. Deceptively medium in body, the 2012 possesses notable energy and structure. This is a terrific showing from Ornellaia’s second wine.

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Dark ruby-red.  Medicinal aromas of blackberry, menthol, mocha, tobacco and dried herbs.  At once silky and juicy, offering noteworthy intensity to its blackberry and dark red cherry fruit flavors.  The savory, sappy finish is broad and vibrant, without any sign of heaviness.  A very good wine, but to me it lacks a little excitement—plus it’s…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2002 Ornellaia (magnum) is a modern-day equivalent of the 1994, which is to say a very pretty wine where all of the elements are beautifully-balanced within the context of small vintage. Still, the wine’s sheer concentration and sense of harmony are truly remarkable, especially considering the cool, rainy conditions that affected Tuscany that year….