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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-purple. Aromas of smoky plum, blackberry syrup, cinnamon and canele (a Bordeaux specialty made from a caramelized batter containing rum and vanilla) are very ripe but not exaggerated, and nicely lifted by floral and mineral topnotes. Very fresh in the mouth, with almost delicate but very deep flavors of dark berries, cedar and minerals….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Smith Haut-Lafitte has a very perfumed, quite floral bouquet with violets permeating the black and red fruit, hints of game and leather developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. Touches of brown spice filter through the red fruit and towards a fleshy and lightly peppered finish. This is a classy…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good bright red-ruby. Enticing aromas of blueberry, flowers, graphite and charred, nutty oak, plus a sexy suggestion of floral white fruit. Like liquid silk on entry, then concentrated and lush in the middle, with red plum, tobacco and mineral flavors given definition by lovely harmonious acidity. Utterly seamless wine with suave tannins. Voluminous and intense…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Inky ruby. Suave, mineral-accented scents of ripe blueberry, black currant and Indian spices, along with a slowly emerging floral component. Plush, broad and deeply concentrated, displaying black and blue fruit, licorice and mocha flavors that are energized by an intense, peppery overtone. Finishes extremely long, fleshy and sweet, delivering intense mineral thrust, a subtle cracked…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Pretty aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and truffle. Then dense and almost massive on the palate, with rich flavors of black plum, cassis and cocoa coating the palate. My enthusiasm was muted by a mouth-puckering tannic astringency. This big, full-bodied Pomerol might yet come around, but I doubt it will ever be…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

I once described the 2009 Le Gay as monumental and I have no reason to alter that view under these blind conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, truffle, forest floor and light tobacco scents that gather momentum in the glass. Captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well poised with…