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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pétrus, matured in 50% new oak, was assessed over a period of 24 hours. It has a magnificent nose, replete with intense black currant, crushed violet and vanilla-y scents, the latter becoming subsumed with modest aeration. These aromas are chiseled to the nth degree and as harmonious as the Everly Brothers. The palate…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Very deep, almost inky ruby. Very ripe aromas of black cherry jam, prune and licorice show a liqueur-like, roasted quality. Enters the mouth like a sweet, supple fruit bomb, with flavors of red cherries and figs macerated in alcohol framed by mocha and sweet spices, then turns quite tannic and drying on the back. Finishes…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Certan de May has a slightly disjointed bouquet compared to the 2010 Clos l’Eglise, broodier and more introspective, but eventually reveals attractive truffle and morel aromas, hints of warm gravel or red bricks. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, taut and crisp with a slightly attenuation towards…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright red-ruby. Wild, old-school aromas of spicecake, loam, game and caramel, with a floral element emerging with air. Then sweeter in the mouth, with dark raspberry and beefsteak tomato merlot notes complicated by blueberry and minerals from the cabernet franc component. Finishes fine-grained, suave and dry, with very good spine. This one will need…

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

Bollinger’s 2014 La Grande Année is a great way to start the evening as guests mill around Wheeler Farms. It is early evening in Napa, but there is still plenty of action in the winery, where various lots are being pressed under the watchful eye of winemaker Nigel Kinsman. There are some moments where I…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Dark violet. Offers dark berry preserves, fruitcake, smoky minerals, olive and pungent flower notes on the highly perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sappy black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors; black pepper and mineral accents add lift and back-end cut. Quite deep but energetic as well, finishing on a building tannic note and…