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The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

Gently spiced notes open into lemon oil and subtle yellow stone fruits in the 2011 Batard-Montrachet. The style is surprisingly weightless for Batard, in fact, this is one of the more refined, introspective 2011 Batards I tasted. The long, persistent finish along is striking. There is no shortage of nuance or finesse in this exceptional…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2006 Figeac is a vintage that I have appreciated for some time, though this might be its best showing. Well-defined and vibrant on the nose, it is quite precise with expressive Cabernet Franc, touches of freshly-rolled tobacco and sage infusing the brambly red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, displaying a discrete…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, licorice pastille, graphite and violet on the lively nose. Suave and fine-grained; not a hugely ripe style but elegant and classically dry, with the wine’s mint, licorice and herbal cabernet component dominating today. Finishes quite firm and a tad dry, with building tannins.

Exploring Maremma’s 2003 and 2004 Vintages (Feb 2007)

Ample, sweet and expansive, the 2003 Sassicaia offers generous notes of sweet dark fruit intermingled with notes of spices, herbs, earthiness and smoke in a full-bodied, opulent expression of this wine. It is an outstanding effort for the vintage. Some cellaring is suggested although with air this wine is drinking beautifully right now.

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2006)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc) Dark ruby-red. Appealing smoky, minerally aromas of red cherry, blackcurrant and plum, with a hint of truffle. Quite suave on entry, then smooth and fine-grained, with good mineral lift to the decidedly sweet red fruit flavors. This broad, rich and supple wine boasts tremendous length and silky-sweet tannins….

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2003 Ornellaia (magnum) is another impressive wine. Owing to the heat of the vintage, this is an especially ripe, opulent Ornellaia. The blend contains a higher percentage of Cabernet Franc and less Merlot than is the norm, which helps preserve a measure of freshness. It is also the first vintage where Petit Verdot is…