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New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Massetino, here in its second release, picks up where the 2017 left off. Let’s start with what is plainly obvious. Massetino, the second wine of Masseto, is more complex and nuanced than most flagship wines in Tuscany’s Maremma. The 2018 beautifully balances energy, aromatic depth and fruit intensity. Mocha, cedar, leather, licorice and…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 2001 La Mission Haut-Brion is less complex on the nose than the preceding millennial vintage. There is more blue fruit here, and perhaps greater purity compared to the 2000, though it does not quite possess the same amplitude. The saline, medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and hints of tangy black olives (kalamata, maybe?), and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Ruby-red. Black cherry, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Dense but juicy and sharply delineated, thanks to its firm spine of acidity. A bit compact today, but finishes with lovely musky sweetness, firm but ripe tannins and superb length.

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barbaresco Montestefano is a glorious wine that captures Rivella’s style at its best. Deep, fresh and full of energy, the 2015 shows a refined side of this highly regarded Barbaresco site, with soft edges that give the wine tremendous raciness as well as immediacy. This is a positively stellar, captivating wine from Guido…

Soldera Redux: 1981-2006 (Oct 2016)

The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dense, powerful and intense. At the same time, there is basically no trace of the unrelentingly hot weather that gave growers so many headaches. Hints of dried cherry, plum, mint, dried rose petal and savory herbs add nuance to the deep, resonant finish. This is one of the…

Vinous Event: Soldera Vertical in London (Oct 2016)

It’s not easy to follow the 1990 Riserva, but the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is more than up to the challenge. Bright, translucent and beautifully focused throughout, the 2006 is all about energy and delineation. It is remarkably accessible for a young Soldera.