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2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg, from volcanic amphibolite soils, opens with a slight reductive funkiness. The palate is smooth and elongated, edged with lemon zest and a lovely pithiness that adds salt. There is some alcoholic power, but the more you savor, the more this delicious saltiness comes to the fore. Wonderfully zesty, wonderfully long.

2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Ried Käferberg comes from soils that unite clay and maritime sediments with a loess cover. It was fermented and aged in a range of barrel sizes. The nose is shy; only a slight savor of miso and Mirabelle plum appears. On the palate, the wine is smooth and flows with beautifully…

Tail Fin Delights: Mâconnais 2023/2024 (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras 1er Cru comes from limestone soils. It has a more weighty, dense nose than the Les Reisses although for me it does not quite deliver the same complexity and mineralité by direct comparison. The palate is well balanced with citrus-lemon and orange rind on the entry, the mineralité coming through…

Looking Back: 2007 Sauternes (Oct 2022)

The 2007 Château de Myrat has quite a strong, petrolly bouquet that slightly obscures the terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with tangy marmalade and quince on the entry. Good acidity here, and it gains more clarity towards the finish. As the aromatics calm down, this turns into a fine Sauternes. Tasted at the…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Full yellow-gold with an orange tinge. Fat and lower-toned on the nose, a bit lacking in lift today. Then surprisingly lean on the palate, with some disjointed acidity apparent. Hard to taste at present.

Cellar Favorite: Castell’in Villa Library Releases (Jul 2025)

The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, a library release, is stellar. Dark, ample and explosive, the 2010 is just entering the first part of its drinking window. Black cherry, graphite, leather, scorched earth and incense add to an impression of brooding intensity. There is a touch of oak sweetness, a reminder that the estate introduced some…