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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Leoville-Barton is laced with dark red and blue-fleshed stone fruits, spices, sweet spice, mint and licorice. This is a decidedly understated, forward Leoville-Barton that will drink well with minimal cellaring. The classic Leoville-Barton signatures aren’t fully developed. Perhaps I caught the 2012 in an awkward stage, but today the wine is quite introspective…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Dark ruby. Delicately smoky nuances complement dark plum and fresh blackcurrant on the subdued nose. Lively flavors of red cherry, violet, minerals and bitter chocolate show less fat but more cut than those of the Langoa Barton, with a slightly edgy quality to the wine’s acidity. The moderately long finish comes across as a little…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Léoville-Barton has a touch more precision and drive compared to 2012 Langoa-Barton, blackberry and raspberry, cedar and mint, almost Pauillac in style. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite feisty and vibrant with good concentration on the finish. This is quite a serious Saint-Julien, and it has the substance to age…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Gaffelière is hands down one of the wines of the vintage. Towering in its stature and vertical lift, the 2018 dazzles right out of the gate. Inky dark fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and leather all run through this deep, wonderfully pliant Saint-Émilion. The 2018 is rich, deep and beautifully resonant, with tremendous…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Gaffelière remains quite backward on the nose; the aromatics are biding their time but will be very attractive, offering pure black cherry, bilberry and light marine aromas that are very well defined. The palate is underpinned by fine, almost filigreed tannins and a superb bead of acidity. This La Gaffelière is harmonious…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Bellevue Mondotte has a heady, quite alcoholic bouquet, as I remarked when tasting it out of barrel, and it lacks the delineation and terroir expression of, say, Pavie Decesse or Pavie. The full-bodied palate offers firm grip, luscious ripe tannin and black cherries mixed with boysenberry jam and fig. The grippy finish is…