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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

Rousseau’s 2012 Chambertin towers out of the glass. Sophisticated, finessed yet also powerful to the core, the 2012 Chambertin captures a compelling range of expressions. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, mint, leather and cedar meld into a huge core of fruit in a dramatic, powerful Chambertin that will require considerable bottle age to show the…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Healthy medium red. Reticent aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, raspberry and smoky minerality. Hugely concentrated and sweet, but in a distinctly cooler and less expressive style than the Clos de Bèze. Sappy, saline wine with an incredible whiplash of a finish that leaves the palate saturated. Showing more red fruits than black in the early…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Meyney is a vintage that I had not tasted before. To be honest, I can understand why Robert Parker gave it a desultory score in the 70s because it is distinctly green on the nose, clearly picked too early. The palate is slightly better with vestiges of sweetness on the entry, but again,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Blackberry, currant, animal fur and a suggestion of raw oak on the nose. Moderately ripe and intensely flavored but tough in the middle and pinched on the back. I find this a bit green and lacking in sweetness. Slightly dry on the finish.

1999 and 1998 White Burgundies (Sep 2000)

Lime and licorice on the nose; less pure than it appeared a year ago in barrel. Broad and rich, with decent acidity and good length. Hint of finishing dryness.

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is a dense, packed wine. It is also surprisingly, almost shockingly backward. That is probably a good thing for its long-term aging prospects. Readers hoping to get an early glimpse into the 2017 before it shuts down may have a hard time doing that, as today…