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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Bélair-Monange is ripe and explosive in the glass, with tremendous fruit density and a real sense of power. Exotic spice, mocha, sweet pipe tobacco, cinnamon and floral notes add layers of nuance to a core of super-ripe dark red and purplish fruit in this sumptuous, flamboyantly ripe Saint-Émilion. Soft curves give the 2017…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bélair-Monange was so impressive out of barrel and now in bottle, I see no reason to alter my appreciation. It has a very intense bouquet, one that is reassuringly complex, especially in context of what was a rather ordinary growing season with copious red cherries, boysenberry, hints of iodine and a light terracotta…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1978 Petrus is slightly better than the previous one tasted. It shows moderate bricking on the rim, but healthy and quite deep at its core. It has a conservative, floral nose as usual with plenty of sous-bois. There is a bit of mulch in here, but also a sense of simple joy. The palate…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1982 Pichon-Lalande has a very pure bouquet, sensual and beautifully defined, featuring blackberry and hints of graphite, and later crushed violet, so that the aromatics are almost Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly edgy, balsamic-tinged entry. There is great depth, focus and power here, though in recent encounters I find the secondary…