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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Flamboyant yet classy aromas and flavors of raspberry, mocha, coffee and herbs. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, but with great lift and perfume giving the wine outstanding inner-palate verve. Wonderfully rich and classically dry Cheval with noble tannins, strong mineral energy and great lingering aromatic character. Atypically full and approachable for young…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

Hints of caramel, orange peel, apricot jam and spice run through the 1989 Cristal. Ample, creamy and generous, the 1989 is in great shape today. The slightly forward aromas and flavors suggest the 1989 has arrived at a plateau of maturity. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade or so, although the…

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

The 1976 Dom Pérignon (Original Release) possesses a very distinctive set of baritone inflections that give the wine its powerful, deep personality. Ripe and full-bodied on the palate, yet very much in the Dom Pérignon style, the 1976 is a wine of textural intensity and raciness. On this night, it is superb.

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

The 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque has really turned a corner over the last six months or so. When it was originally introduced the 1996 was hard as nails, today it is an exquisite Champagne that captures the essential brightness and energy of the year. Lemon, slate, oyster shells and white flowers stain the palate in…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged in 2008): Yellow-gold. Explosive aromas of ripe pear, honey, gingerbread and iodine, with intense smokiness and notes of chalky minerals and magnolia. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by exotic spice and mineral qualities, picking up notes of buttery brioche and toasted grain with air. Strikingly dense but energetic too, finishing…