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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Full red. Crystal lized redcurrant and plum on the nose. Suave on entry, then rather closed in the middle palate, hinting only at licorice and menthol. But this powerfully structured Barolo builds impressively toward the back end. The tannins are substantial but not dry.

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Blanc de Blancs is a fabulous choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. Soft and creamy, the 2015 is immediately caressing in its embrace. Citrus confit, white flowers, spice and a hint of pastry all meld together. There is something effortless about the 2015 that is hard to describe….

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé is magnificent. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2008 offers up an exotic mélange of aromas and flavors. Sweet red cherry, mint, orange peel and rose petal all grace this beguiling beauty. Bright acids and a little less still red Pinot (21%) than in most recent editions yields a…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright red-ruby. Ripe, scented aromas of raspberry, strawberry, violet, licorice, cedar and wild herbs on the knockout nose. Wonderfully sappy and juicy but not thick, with intense, very pure red berry, white pepper, floral and cedar flavors showing terrific thrust and lift. Finishes dense and long, with repeating floral, white pepper and red berry nuances….

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Cheval Blanc has an elegant, quite refined bouquet with brambly red fruit, scorched earth, terracotta and sage, very complex and harmonious. Could this be Figeac? [Post-script. No, but not far off!] The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, quite plush and sensual, rich for this vintage with plenty of concentrated, quite sweet and…

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Lynch-Bages is another wine that I have not seen for quite some time. I don’t think this is the best it can show, although there is nothing obviously at fault. It has a touch of VA on the nose that enhances the liquorice-tinged black fruit, tobacco scents emerging with time. The palate is…