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Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

The 1999 belongs to the family of warm, ripe vintage at Salon. An atypically big, dense wine by Salon standards, the 1999 is somewhat one-dimensional and not likely to improve considerably from here. At the same time, the 1999 has more than enough depth to drink well for a number of years. All things considered,…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

Bright yellow-gold. Deeply pitched, pungent aromas of candied lemon, pear skin, anise, buttered toast and smoky lees, with notes of ginger and white flowers adding lift. Densely packed yet vibrant, showing impressive power and clarity to its mineral-accented citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Expands on the finish but maintains its focus, picking up iodine and…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2000 Dom Pérignon P2 is striking. More importantly, it is absolutely delicious right now. Baked apple tart, brioche, spice, vanillin, ripe pear and crushed rocks all flesh out. Creamy, layered and inviting, with soft, voluptuous curves, the 2000 offers a lot of sheer pleasure. Although, perhaps not quite as complex or structured as the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has just a touch of reduction on the nose, but there is clearly good fruit concentration here, a light waxy aromas emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a honeyed texture, lightly spiced, riper than the Charmes but without quite the same delineation.

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

Burlotto’s 2013 Barolo Monvigliero is a wine I like to serve at dinners like this one, as I know most people may never taste it, which is a shame. Of course, the 2013 is young, but its profound greatness is evident in the early going, The interplay of aromatics, fruit and structure really brings out…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Captivating, tangy aromas of vineyard peach, pear, white flowers and curry powder. Supple and very concentrated; thick but lively thanks to perfectly integrated acidity. Fruit notes nicely complemented by spice tones. Conveys a tactile impression of extract. Long and strong on the back end. Still quite youthfully unevolved and built for long life.