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2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Malescot Saint Exupéry is fabulous. Powerful and explosive on the palate, the 2016 offers serious intensity, but it also appears to be holding back quite a bit of its potential. Moreover, what impresses me most is that in 2016, intensity is delivered more with finesse than with the brutish power that is such…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Malescot Saint Exupéry has a well-defined bouquet of ample red currant, cranberry and strawberry fruit laced with rose petal and hints of graphite. There is something almost Saint Julien–like about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, graphite-infused black fruit, and quite linear and poised, but it conveys a genuine sense of…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 1989 Krug Collection is a wine with an uneven track record. This bottle is one of the finer examples I have had. Fully mature flavors of hazelnut, tobacco, smoke, licorice and dried fruits all make an appearance, while some of the more mushroomy elements found in some bottles are, thankfully, missing. At its best,…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1992 Clos du Mesnil require quite a bit of air to open up. It is an unusual Clos du Mesnil marked by elements of botrytis that lend it an exotic air. There is plenty of power and the reserve to age well for many more years.

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Subdued, extremely pure, soil-inflected nose hints at lemon, ginger, smoke, minerals, iodine, nutmeg and hazelnut. From a sniff, I would have been as likely to say Le Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne as Mesnil, but I would certainly have named one of the planet’s elite sites for chardonnay. Very laid-back and dry, even austere today, with an…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1970 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I tasted regularly about twenty years ago – always a strong performer even if it did not deliver fireworks. At over half a century, it has not lost a bit of vigour, but there are lovely scents of clove, liquorice and a touch of furniture polish combining with…