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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was given an hour’s decant and then observed over the next 24 hours. It has clearly retained the showstopping nose that I encountered from barrel, those same “gentle waves" of black cherries and blueberry, incense and violets lending it a Margaux-like allure. The palate is vibrant and full of tension from the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pichon Baron has a fragrant bouquet with well-defined black fruit, cedar and subtle sous-bois aromas, unfolding with a sense of confidence with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, good weight and body. Well-proportioned towards the finish, this is a classy Pauillac and has the edge over Pichon-Lalande at the…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot; 80% new oak): Opaque ruby-purple. Fragrant bouquet of blackberry, violet and spicy graphite. Bright and juicy on the palate, with sneaky concentration and lively acidity lifting the delicate blackcurrant and mineral flavors. Finishes long and tactile, with hints of ink and spice. A very good showing.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pichon-Longueville Baron is wonderfully aromatic and textured in the glass. Scents of smoke, pipe tobacco and cedar meld into a core of intense dark fruit. Pliant and supple, but with considerable underlying structure, the 2012 is likely to drink well for the next two to three decades, perhaps longer, but it is also…

Vinous Table: Ginza Cobau コバウ, Tokyo, Japan (Apr 2019)

The 2012 Pichon Baron is a magnificent wine that exudes freshness on the nose, with razor-sharp graphite notes suffusing the black fruit. The structured, linear palate just “sings” Pauillac; it is not as bold or as ambitious as the 2009 or 2015, yet there is perfect dryness toward the finish that urges you to take…