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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Les Gravières is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel. Graphite, dried herbs, licorice, lavender and purple/black fruits are all laced together. The 2018 has shut down quite a bit after bottling. Today the acids and tannins are quite present. That won't be an issue in time, but it does mean…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Grand Corbin Despagne is a powerful, brooding wine. Beams of tannin give it much of its shape and overall feel. Savory herbs, smoke, leather and tobacco add to an overall impression of pure power. Give this muscular Saint-Émilion at least a few years to soften. I suspect Grand Corbin Despagne will always display…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Grand Corbin is a powerful, dense wine. Dark raspberry jam, chocolate, new leather, spice and menthol fill out the wine nicely. The 2015 remains a brute, with searing tannins that need at least a few years to settle down. There is more power here than finesse, but even so, there is good potential….

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

Like its stablemate La Violette, the 2018 Le Gay is initially reserved on the nose and gradually unfurls to reveal precise blackberry, bilberry, black truffle and light raspberry preserve aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. This is a relatively conservative Le Gay, but it is very precise and full of tension. Lovely blackberry…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Gay is unusually reticent today. Lavender, rose petal, mint, blood orange and crushed red berry fruit emerge over time. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2018 packs serious punch. It is one of more sensual wines of the vintage in Pomerol, but readers will have to be patient, as the 2018 is…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Fonbadet makes good on the promise it showed last year, presenting a finely chiseled bouquet of blackberry, graphite and light sous-bois scents. Coy at first, it unfolds with confidence. The palate is very cohesive with well-judged natural acidity. There is plenty of coiled-up energy in this Fonbadet, but what really distinguishes it is…