Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Good pale color. Knockout aromas of smoke, truffle and exotic Indian spices. Round, seamless and creamy, with mellow but fresh flavors of toasted nuts, marzipan, mocha, lemon butter and earth. Showcases the wonderful balance of this great Champagne vintage. Fully mature and starting to lose its mousse, but a joy to drink. This is a…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2009)

Light gold with a steady bead of pinpoint bubbles. Deep, musky aromas of buttered toast, cherry pit, blood orange, lemon rind, pungent herbs and yellow rose, with mounting spiciness. Deeply concentrated but showing unlikely finesse, with firm, gripping red berry and citrus flavors and exotic notes of candied flowers and smoky lees. Intriguing for its…

Champagne: The Last Frontier (Dec 2009)

The 2000 Brut Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises emerges from the glass with an elegant, refined mousse that is captivating. Sweet, perfumed and layered, the 2000 VVF shows off superb grace and a long, vibrant finish. This is an especially elegant and understated version of this Champagne. My preference is to drink VVF before…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. Vibrant scents of citrus fruits and white flowers. Silky, broad and refined, with its classic dryness leavened by an element of orchard fruit sweetness. Finishes dry, pure and persistent, with lingering notes of flowers and spices and the acidity, backbone and grip to support mid-term aging. This is always a rather…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a taut, linear, comparatively austere bouquet, direct and focused – quintessential Puligny. The palate is very well balanced with cleverly integrated oak, perfectly judged acidity and impressive weight and density toward the finish, while retaining a sense of elegance. This does need 3–4 years in bottle just…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru comes from just under a single hectare of vines next to Blagny. It has quite a stern, austere bouquet at the moment, a little overshadowed by the Puligny Village. The palate is well balanced with light citrus lemon, white peach and lime notes on the entry, moderate weight…