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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru conveys strictness and correctness on the nose compared to the more expressive and perhaps more aromatically elegant Blanchots. This is a little austere at first, but it warms up nicely and reveals subtle orange blossom and undergrowth scents. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, with hints of white…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has a much subtler bouquet than the Les Caillerets, the grilled walnut, almond and light smoky aromas gently wafting from the glass. The palate is built around tension and nervosité, very classic in style. Walnut and hazelnut notes emerge toward the finish, which fans out with style. This…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

There are three barrels of the 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru this year, two of them new and the third four years old. This was displaying some reduction at the time of my visit, although underneath there is intense black and red fruit plus a subtle marine influence of oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep ruby-red. Distinctive, oak-dominated aromas of crushed blackberry, cedar, tar and meat; distinctly Rioja-like. Then dry, penetrating and uncompromising, with strong berry flavor and somewhat tart-edged acidity. A rather skinny St. Julien that may put on weight in bottle. Finishes with dusty tannins and very good length. Seems far crisper than an early sample…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

(from 50-year-old vines cropped at about 35 hectoliters per hectare, according to Girardin) Pure but reticent aromas of yellow fruits, nut oil and menthol. Dense, chewy and powerful, with superconcentrated flavors framed by firm acidity. A very solid grand cru with excellent spine for aging.