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A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1982 Talbot has long been one of my favourites of the decade. Now at 35 years of age it retains its deep garnet colour. The bouquet is fresh and vigorous with black fruit, sous-bois, chocolate and a light splash of balsamic, almost like a “toned down” Gruaud Larose. The palate is cohesive with fine…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Ruby-red. Flamboyant if somewhat unrefined nose melds plum, roasted red berries, leather, meat and tobacco. Sweet but firm-edged, with solid richness and a layered texture. Finishes with slightly edgy tannins that still could use a couple years of patience.

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1984 Pichon-Lalande has an attractive nose: blackberry, bilberry, red pepper, sandalwood and decayed leaves, surprisingly fresh, perhaps just with a touch of brettanomyces? Becoming more hickory with time. The palate is balanced with supple tannins, fine acidity, slightly grainy in texture and then softening towards the liquorice tinged finish. This maybe lacks a little…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1986 La Conseillante is a wine that I have tasted on three occasions. As part of the Chez Bruce vertical in research for the book it failed to shine and in print I described it as curmudgeonly and dowdy. Recent bottles have been a little better, reflecting a rather dull patch for the estate…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Deep smoky, leesy aromas of apple, toffee, clove and nuts, lifted by a lemony nuance. A medium-bodied wine with plenty of dosage; sweet flavors of apple and mirabelle retain good freshness of fruit for ’89. Frothy, smooth and essentially gentle, but with decent backbone and grip. Firm on the finish.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Talbot is endowed with serious power and density, much of which it appears to have acquired during aging. Dark plum, lavender, new leather, spice and grilled herbs run through this decidedly potent Saint-Julien. Readers will have to give the 2015 at least a few years to shed some of its formidable tannins. In…