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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1969 Cheval Blanc is a bona fide off vintage. To be frank, it is no revelation. Rather enervated and autumnal on the nose, like the one previous bottle I have encountered, it evokes images of rusty nails and feels very diffuse in style. The palate is medium-bodied and fresher than the aromatics augur. The…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The 2000 Brut La Grande Année is a ripe, open wine bursting with generous, expansive fruit. Smoke, minerals, pastry crust and flowers add complexity to the radiant fruit. The Grande Année reveals gorgeous depth and a multi-dimensional, kaleidoscopic personality that screams of pure breed. The 2000 will be a fascinating vintage to follow. I am…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(63% pinot noir and 37% chardonnay) Bright yellow-gold. High-pitched aromas of lemongrass, orange peel, pear and white pepper, with a slow-building smokiness. Energetic, sharply focused citrus flavors gain depth with air, picking up deeper orchard and pit fruit character while retaining vivacity. Leaves a trail of piquant minerals and citrus zest behind on the long,…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(racked and sulfited): Good bright, dark red. Raspberry, spices, flowers and licorice on the scented nose. Dense, sweet and creamy, with a dominant flavor of sappy maraschino cherry. Finishes impressively long and palate-saturating, with ripe tannins and good medicinal reserve. Lachaux noted that this cuvee used to be harder, but is very supple in both…

The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Deep red; in fact, almost ruby, showing virtually no sign of development. Knockout nose combines red fruits, iron and spices, along with some balsamic earth notes and a whiff of caramel; I was reminded of a cave à cigares. Full, lush and utterly seamless; large-scaled but weightless, with the redcurrant and earth flavors showing the…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Medium red. Spicy, inviting bouquet of strawberry and redcurrant, with sexy notes of potpourri and cola. Sappy, finely etched red berry flavors are deepened by cola and sassafras qualities. Very complex Cotes du Rhone with excellent finishing clarity and thrust.