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2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

((tasted from tanks, awaiting final blending. #1) Explosively floral, with remarkable purity and a strong licorice tone. #2: Spicier sample, with strong cherry pit and graphite on the palate and a bright, zesty quality. #3: Solid and chewy, with strong bitter cherry, dark chocolate and tobacco qualities (this batch gives the wine its skeleton). #4…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Ruchottes-Chambertin is almost uncharacteristically dark in its shades of expression. It is the only wine among Christophe Roumier’s 2011s that is not showing as well from bottle as it did from barrel. Today, the Ruchottes shows plenty of power and intensity, but less in the way of finesse.

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Bright red. Sexy aromas of cherry, raspberry, menthol and truffley underbrush. Sappy and energetic, with good mineral energy to the flavors of red berries, spices and pepper. Lovely silky wine with a light touch and a firm spine of acids and tannins. A superb 2011 with a long finish.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep, lurid violet. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes mineral- and spice-accented red/blue fruit liqueur, incense and floral oils, along with hints of cola and woodsmoke in the background. Sappy boysenberry, black raspberry, candied lavender and exotic spice flavors show a superb blend of depth and energy and turn sweeter through the back half. The berry…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Laroze is a very pretty wine. Although not especially complex, it offers lovely purity in its flavors, along with soft contours and silky tannins to match its midweight personality. I would prefer to drink it on the early side in order to catch the youthful juiciness of the red cherry and plum. Hints…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2009 Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is remarkably polished and balanced throughout, with plenty of vintage 2009 radiance. Apricot pit, smoke, peach and spice overtones take shape in a striking Champagne. Although quite open and expressive today, the 2009 is also holding back a considerable amount of pure, unbridled power as well as potential. Ripe…