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Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(Saturated, bright ruby-red. Great nose offers a full range of aromas) cassis, raspberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, Asian spices. Dense, lush and sweet; a superripe Ornellaia that almost miraculously remains elegant. The raspberry and chocolate character follows through in the mouth. Finishes very fresh, with big, broad, chocolatey tannins and a late note of leather. Turned…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet core with some bricking on the rim. On the nose, it shows exactly the same as before, offering a gorgeous mélange of mulberry, rust, fennel and light garrigue notes, very well defined and even a little rustic in style. The aromatics have aged better than the medium-bodied…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. High-pitched, perfumed aromas of dark berries, minerals and violet; very cabernet. Rich, dense and youthful; broad and beefy, with cassis, black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes very sweet and long, with fine tannins spreading out impressively to coat the palate. A great showing. Drink now through 2015.

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

Bright straw-yellow. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of white peach, lime and violet. Suave on entry, then juicy and aromatic in the middle palate, with lovely floral lift to the flavors of white peach and lime. Intensely flavored but subtle and delicate, especially for the vintage. Today this dry, vibrant wine comes across as longer and firmer…

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 1999 Rauzan-Ségla is a modest success for the vintage. The bouquet offers raspberry, sage and light mint aromas, simple and perhaps less ambitious than the 1998. The palate is well balanced and quite firm and stocky, not a Margaux with finesse but showing decent length. I doubt that it will improve with further bottle…