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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Latour has always been a quintessential Bordeaux and a quintessential Latour. This is just as composed and detailed as the finest bottles that I have encountered, bridled with captivating blackberry, graphite and cedar aromas that are brilliantly focused. Perhaps it is not quite as showy as it was a few years ago, yet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Latour is the most consistent of the First Growths in this auspicious vintage. Tasted from both bottle and magnum in the UK in recent months, this note comes from an ex-château magnum tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. It exudes class and majesty on the nose with its copious but brilliantly focused…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Climens has a well-defined, complex bouquet of dried honey, peach skin, quince and a light beeswax scent. Tight at first, it only takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. The palate is where the action is: very intense and concentrated with layers of botrytized fruit, lightly spiced with tangy marmalade,…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium yellow. Reticent, liqueur-like aromas of yellow plum, vineyard peach, spices, white flowers and menthol. Impeccably balanced and impressively structured, with its new oak component to the fore. But this extremely bright, intense, focused wine possesses a strong core of spicy, botrytized fruit. Finishes with terrific fruit and an almost tannic firmness. Like so many…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chapelle d’Ausone has a lucid ruby hue. The nose is very succinct, nothing ostentatious, just tightly wound red and black fruit, beautifully integrated new oak (100%) with hints of crushed violet that become more prominent with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, well judged acidity, quite linear and focused. An…