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Oregon: An Embarrassment of Riches and Richness (Jun 2019)

Vivid red. Incisive aromas of fresh red berries, cherry liqueur, succulent herbs and a hint of exotic spices on the highly perfumed nose. Offers chewy, palate-staining red/blue fruit, and blood orange. Spicecake flavors pick up floral pastille and licorice notes with aeration. Shows impressive depth of flavor, with no excess weight, and finishes impressively long,…

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1995 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. After 23 years there remains plenty of dark berry fruit on the nose mixed with sous-bois, melted tar and brown spices. Compared to the 1996, it does not quite deliver the same precision. The palate is medium-bodied…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Inky violet color. Rich, smoky and deep on the nose, with powerful scents of chocolate, creme de mure and kirsch, tinged by candied violet and cracked pepper. Concentrated and lush, with a round, velvety texture and abundant sweet plum, blackberry and mocha flavors. Finishes with ripe, round tannins, a very sweet note of cassis, and…

Make Way for Even More Rosé (Aug 2018)

Light, bright orange. Smoke- and mineral-accented red berries, citrus fruits, vanilla and rose pastille on the highly expressive and expansive nose. Juicy and seamless on the palate, offering deeply concentrated, velvety raspberry liqueur, tangerine and vanilla bean flavors that show superb clarity and powerful thrust. Rich yet almost shockingly lithe in character, delivering strong, mineral-driven…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Light gold. Pungent, mineral-laced aromas of dried pear, fig, honey and fennel, with a hint of jasmine in the background. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering incisive orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of waxiness. Smoothly combines richness and vivacity, finishing with firm mineral bite and strong floral persistence.

2000 and 1999 White Burgundies (Sep 2001)

Subtle, oily aromas of peach and smoke. Fairly large-scaled and concentrated, with ripe pit fruit flavors enlivened by firm acidity. This is rather accessible for a young Virondot from Morey but still has a penetrating quality and a slightly austere, aggressive back end, with a bit of acidity yet to be absorbed.