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1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Captivating, tangy aromas of vineyard peach, pear, white flowers and curry powder. Supple and very concentrated; thick but lively thanks to perfectly integrated acidity. Fruit notes nicely complemented by spice tones. Conveys a tactile impression of extract. Long and strong on the back end. Still quite youthfully unevolved and built for long life.

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2005 Brut La Grande Année hasn’t changed much since I last tasted it about six months ago. If anything, the 2005 is a bit less interesting than it was when I first tasted it. Soft, forward and heading towards maturity, the 2005 is a Champagne to drink now and over the next few years….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(bottled at the end of March) Good red-ruby. More evolved aromas of redcurrant, plum, cedar, tobacco, leather and oak. Sweet on entry, then distinctly wild, with notes of earth, meat and cedar. Finishes with dusty, somewhat drying tannins and good length. Seems best suited for drinking on the early side, before the fruit dries out.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Mouton-Rothschild contains 20% vin de presse and 12.6° alcohol. It has a vibrant, captivating bouquet that explodes from the glass with precocious black cherries, sous-bois, mint and a touch of Seville oranges, displaying precision and class. The medium-bodied palate shows good density and offers sappy black fruit, white pepper and just a touch…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Good full ruby. High-pitched aromas of blackberry, mint and minerals. Juicy but quite tightly wound today; much more austere than the comparatively pliant Clerc-Milon-not to mention firmer and less fleshy than it appeared from barrel a year ago. Juicy acidity contributes to the impression of structure. Unlike most 2001s, this seems already to have gone…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

In two recent tastings the 2005 Château Margaux has been nothing less than magnificent. A wine of stunning perfume and inner sweetness, the 2005 gradually opens to reveal layers of red-toned fruit intermingled with floral accents. It’s as if all the classic Margaux signatures have been amped up in a huge way. Dehydration on the…