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2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

Gaja’s 2014 Barolo Conteisa is a jewel of a wine. Translucent, energetic and vibrant, it offers striking precision, with lovely salinity and bright acids that lift the red berry flavors. Conteisa is always a wine that leans toward the more delicate side of things. In 2014, all of those signatures are brought out by the…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Mocha, espresso, black cherries, licorice and exotic spices wrap around the palate as the 2009 Camarcanda shows off its personality and pure class. This is a gorgeous Camarcanda endowed with superb textural richness and depth, all while maintaining an attractive, medium-bodied personality. Fine, silky tannins frame the finish.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good deep red. Deep, brooding aromas of plum, menthol, truffle, marzipan and chestnut; very Serralunga. Fat, sweet and full but youthfully inexpressive; impressively thick but monolithic at present. This expands dramatically toward the back, finishing with huge, broad tannins. A very tight wine in need of extended aging: I can see this being quite long-lived,…

2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

The 2003 Sperss has aged a little better than the Conteisa, which is not surprising considering its Serralunga origins and the firmer tannins that have helped maintain a sense of freshness. Smoke, iron, graphite and spices add nuance in a dark, powerful wine with plenty of intensity. My preference would be to drink the 2003…

2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

Dark red cherry, smoke, plum, wild flowers and cedar are some of the notes that flesh out in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from Castelgiocondo. Ripe, soft and textured on the palate, the 2010 impresses for its silkiness and early approachability. Sweet floral and spiced notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable lift and perfume….

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Medium color shows some development. Expressive, complex aromas of redcurrant, plum, dried flowers, tobacco and smoke; rather Graves-like. Smooth, silky and consistent, with lovely sweetness and moderate flesh and weight. The very fine, tongue dusting tannins are slightly dry, but there also sneaky finishing fruit. Drink over the next five or six years.