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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

As I mentioned in my tasting note from barrel, the 2018 Angélus is the first vintage aged in two new foudres. It is very perfumed on the nose, one of the most floral that I can recall at this early stage. Violet and incense aromas percolate through the precise blackberry and cassis fruit, all displaying…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Angélus is striking. Cabernet Franc aromatics make a strong first impression. Vibrant and delineated, the 2018 is incredibly refined in every way. The move towards a bit less extraction really seems to let the purity of the fruit come through. The same is true of a reduction of oak. All the elements come…

The Best New Releases from Australia, Part Two (Sep 2011)

(most of this vintage’s fruit comes from Tasmania, with the rest grown in the Adelaide Hills): Pale, green-tinged yellow. An exotic bouquet displays nectarine, orange zest, iodine and spices. Smoky mineral and dried fig notes add complexity and depth to fresh orchard fruit and candied citrus flavors. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with serious…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep, lurid violet. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes mineral- and spice-accented red/blue fruit liqueur, incense and floral oils, along with hints of cola and woodsmoke in the background. Sappy boysenberry, black raspberry, candied lavender and exotic spice flavors show a superb blend of depth and energy and turn sweeter through the back half. The berry…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Laroze is a very pretty wine. Although not especially complex, it offers lovely purity in its flavors, along with soft contours and silky tannins to match its midweight personality. I would prefer to drink it on the early side in order to catch the youthful juiciness of the red cherry and plum. Hints…