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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Ruby-red. Flamboyant if somewhat unrefined nose melds plum, roasted red berries, leather, meat and tobacco. Sweet but firm-edged, with solid richness and a layered texture. Finishes with slightly edgy tannins that still could use a couple years of patience.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Rather evolved, chocolatey nose shows hints of oxidation. Too old in the mouth and starting to lose its fruit. This can’t be right. But I’ve found considerable variation with this wine, with some bottles showing classic Palmer aromas and flavors of dark berries and violet while others have been distinctly leathery and meaty, with…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep red. Roasted red fruits, smoked meat, tobacco and a note of truffle on the expressive nose. Sweet and rather primary, with classic Pessac-Leognan flavors of iron, woodsmoke, hot stones and tobacco. Broad and smooth for the year, if not quite as dense as the young 2006. Finishes with lovely ripe tannins and lingering sweetness….

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1981 Pichon-Lalande was served with the 1982 and 1983 by estate director Nicolas Glumineau. I must confess that I was shocked how well it showed, far surpassing the example shown at a vertical a few months earlier. This has a lovely bouquet of black fruit, autumn leaves, cedar and bay leaf, clearly bestowed with…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Aloxe-Corton Clos des Maréchaudes 1er Cru has an open bouquet with red cherry and bergamot aromas, quite earthy in style. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, firm grip, just a bit “blocky” on the finish.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Aloxe-Corton Clos des Maréchaudes 1er Cru comes from a vineyard that requires more than one pass, since its variegated soils predicate different maturity levels. It has a floral, violet-scented bouquet that bursts from the glass with black cherries and touches of cassis. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very pure and charming,…