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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Good medium red with a pale amber rim. Spice and floral notes lift delicate red cherry and redcurrant aromas. Bright and juicy on entry, then sweeter and richer in the middle, with chunky red berry and cherry flavors complicated by spices, underbrush and lemon zest. Lively acidity and a saline touch extend the gentle flavors…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1989 Gruaud Larose is a wine that I have tasted a dozen or so times since back in 2001, most recently in 2012. The bottle was poured against several Californian wines that might be unfair, however, I do feel that this vintage has maybe peaked several years ago. Here it was well defined on…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Rocheyron is a huge, massively endowed St.-Émilion marked by considerable richness but even bigger tannins that clamp down on the fruit and convey an impression of austerity. This is a work in progress. For now, there is little pleasure here.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Trotanoy is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage. In 2015, Trotanoy captures all the intensity of the year in its ample, full-bodied frame, and yet there is more than enough structure, energy and minerality to play off the wine’s more overt leanings. A rush of black cherry, plum, graphite, leather,…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Trotanoy has generous black cherry, blackberry, briary and white pepper aromas on the nose that seem to envelop the senses. There is just a hint of autumn bonfire in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fresh and nicely poised. A dash of spice toward the peppery finish, hints of Chinese…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1979 Ducru-Beaucaillou, a vintage that I have not encountered before, has a light and innocuous bouquet, mint-tinged black fruit, quite herbal but actually better than some more revered vintages of the Eighties. The palate is medium-bodied with a herbal entry, moderate weight, rustic but showing less dryness on the finish that expected. It’s an…