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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2015 Yquem has always been a vintage that I have approached with caution. It was a very early harvest that began on 3 September and finished on 21 October after temperatures fell during the picking. As usual, I have reservations about the nose that, for me, lacks the cohesion and complexity of the 2014….

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2008 Cristal is one of the most complete, most dazzling Champagnes I have ever tasted. A stunning wine from any and all perspectives, the 2008 simply has it all. Spherical in construction, with superb persistence. The 2008 takes hold of all the senses and never gives up. One of the many things that makes…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Village, one of Leroux’s largest cuvées at 31 barrels, a large proportion sourced from Flagey-Echézeaux, has a fragrant bouquet with white flowers complementing the red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit. The medium-bodied palate displays supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, silky-smooth texture and a tart red cherry and orange peel finish…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(a blend of eight vineyards): Bright medium red. Very dark aromas of black cherry, blackberry, licorice, herbs and spices. A juicy, youthfully tight midweight with a firm spine of dusty tannins and sneaky persistence. (Incidentally, the 2014 Bourgogne Rouge showed sexy red fruit flavors in a round, juicy style and should offer early pleasure. )

The 2022 Champagne Spring Preview (May 2022)

The 2012 Comtes de Champagne is gorgeous. Warm and resonant in the glass, the 2012 Comtes shows all the allure that makes this vintage so appealing. The combination of bright citrus, mineral and floral notes typical of Comtes, enhanced by the soft contours of the vintage, makes for an inviting, open-knit Champagne that is quite…

Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1921-2016 (Oct 2017)

An eternal wine, the 2010 Pichon Lalande is a total showstopper. The first impression is one of explosive power, but time in the glass brings out the wine’s more delicate, floral side. Violet, graphite, crème de cassis, licorice and menthol overtones recall the 1996, but the tannins here are much softer, sweeter and more polished….