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2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is powerful, rich and explosive, with tremendous drive. Even so, several bottles have been quite closed. That is probably a very good sign for the long-term, but readers should not plan on touching a bottle anytime soon. A wine of vertical drive and aromatic nuance, the 2016 Rancia is…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(fermented in large oak tanks and aged for six years in new French and American oak barriques) Saturated ruby. Explosively perfumed aromas of fresh ripe red fruits, floral oils, pipe tobacco and incense take on sexy vanilla and woodsmoke nuances as the wine opens up. Densely packed yet shockingly lithe on the palate, offering intense…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(Jadot buys must and grapes from three different sources, all on the Puligny side of the appellation): Healthy bright yellow. Fresher on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering scents of acacia flower, coconutty oak and caramel; quite open today owing to lower free sulfur at bottling. Concentrated and flavorful if a bit warm, with peach,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Latour is a vintage that I have not encountered for four or five years. It has a pH of 3.80 and a yield of 38hl/ha, representing 58% of the total crop. Interestingly, this includes 14% vin de presse compared to the 9 to 10% used nowadays. It has a classic Latour bouquet of…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of red- and blackcurrant, minerals and leather. Wonderfully harmonious in the mouth, with compelling sweetness of fruit but also superb grip. A lush, rich wine that already displays impressive inner-mouth perfume. Finishes with broad, essentially gentle tannins. Doesn’t quite possess the grip or thrust of the ’01, but this is wine-of-the-vintage…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)

Ruby-red. Vinous, captivating aromas of blackberry, wild plum, currant, roast coffee and mocha, with subtle rather than overwhelming evidence of American oak. Concentrated, harmonious and quite suave; at once velvety and nicely delineated thanks to ripe, well-integrated acidity. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins and excellent length.