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The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

Deep red. A complex, heady bouquet of dried red berries, sandalwood, rose oil, black tea and licorice pastille. Smooth, focused and gently sweet cherry and raspberry flavors coat the palate, with gentle but integrated tannins providing shape. This silky, seamless wine finishes with a strong echo of candied flowers, spices and minerals.

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1992 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray is a vintage that I have not tasted previously. To be frank, I was hoping for a little more conviction and energy on the nose given that this was a great white Burgundy vintage. The palate is slightly better: balanced with fine acidity, notes of brioche,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

It is time that the 1982 Haut-Brion got the respect it deserves. Forever deemed the “least” of the First Growth, that holds no water if this example is anything to go by, the best of a couple of dozen bottles encountered over many years. Amazingly-fresh on the nose, this shimmers with red fruit, black olive,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good medium amber-edge red. Flamboyant aromas of smoked meat, leather, truffle and burnished oak. Intensely flavored and penetrating, with strong acids giving the flavors terrific cut and grip. I get an impression of strong cabernet tannins. Drink now through 2020. 94. My second bottle showed even more extravagantly expressive aromas of hot stones, tobacco, minerals…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is a total knock-out. Given the heat and tiny yields of the year, one might reasonably expect a big wine; this, however, has really grown into an elegant, polished Cabernet. Silky, perfumed and rich, the 2015 is exquisitely beautiful, super-elegant and expressive. Gorgeous dark red/purplish fruit, floral and spice…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black and blue fruits, licorice pastille and menthol lifted by a floral topnote. Then tight, dry and classic on the palate, with terrific energy and an impression of weightlessness to the youthfully imploded flavors of black fruits, minerals, camphor, cedar and tobacco. As smooth as it is, it’s also quite…