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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a blend of 83% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot and 4% cabernet franc) Deep purple-ruby. Dense, rich, absolutely classic Lafite nose redolent of blackcurrant, cedar and graphite. Enters fat, with blackberry, licorice and underbrush flavors framed by strong but harmonious acids and youthful tannins that will need time to resolve. This is presently the most backward…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Lafite Rothschild put in a strange showing at the previous horizontal just a few weeks earlier. This bottle is much better. It has a deep color with little ageing on the rim. On the nose there is ample fruit, blackberry and bilberry with notes of pencil lead and sage, but overall there is…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Full ruby-red with a purple tinge. Crushed cassis, blackberry, violet, cedar and graphite on the very fresh, complex nose. Juicy, spicy and penetrating, with lovely harmonious acids providing great clarity and cut to the black fruit and graphite flavors. Still youthfully closed and very mineral. Finishes pure and extremely long, with very fine tannins. This…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)

Ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, tar and scotch; faint suggestion of mildew. Ripe, rich and rather oaky, with good weight in the middle palate. Slightly dried by the wood on the back end.

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Saturated, bright ruby-red. Superripe aromas of currant, spicecake and maple syrup. Fat, sweet and smooth, with an herbal aspect contributing shape and clarity. Finishes slightly dry and rather tannic, with a bit of acidity to be absorbed.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1988 Petrus is a vintage that I have encountered in two occasions. It is a forerunner for the 1989 and 1990 and frankly, it cannot hold a torch to those twin titans. In retrospect, one can see it more as a small progression from the capable 1987. It has a youthful hue with less…