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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1995 Petrus is one of the finest vintages of the decade, a silver medal behind the brilliant 1998. This bottle might well constitute the best that I have encountered. It has a beautiful, focused nose with hints of game and humidor infusing the black fruit. With aeration more red fruit becomes evident, allied with…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated red-ruby color. Knockout aromas of black raspberry, melted toffee, minerals and smoky oak. Explosively spicy, mulberry-flavored fruit builds and builds in the mouth. Harmonious acidity gives this extremely rich, large-scaled Petrus great balance for aging. Finishes with substantial but thoroughly ripe tannins and palate-staining length. At this early stage, I rate this wine a…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity…

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé (magnum) is powerful and explosive in style, with superb overall intensity. In this flight, the 1990 comes across as a more polished version of the 1993. Just beginning to enter its tertiary phase, the 1990 is in a great place to deliver maximum pleasure. Autumn leaves, crushed flowers mint and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pale orange-bronze color. Pinot-like aromas of blood orange, game, smoke and earth, along with hints of orange marmalade and peach; the nose of this wine always reminds me of Nuits-Saint-Georges or Vosne-Romanee. Very intensely flavored, ripe and tactile, but without an ounce of excess weight. Compelling flavors of wild red fruits, spices and earth; very…

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 1999)

Full ruby. Superripe aromas of roasted plum, saddle leather, smoked meat, mint and oak spice. Huge, thick and sweet; extraordinarily ripe but supported by firm, ripe acids. Really suffuses the palate with sweet fruit. Explosive aftertaste features roasted berry, leather and woodsmoke notes and uncanny sweetness. Showing extremely well today but built to age.