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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby color. Initially mute nose opens to reveal a sappy black cherry and licorice aroma, but no sign of the superripe quality found in the best Lafleurs from decades past. Dense and extremely backward in the mouth; displays a very primary iodiney/fruit pit quality and excellent sweetness. Powerfully structured and quite tannic;…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1994 Lafleur is a vintage that I drank regularly in the days when such off-vintages were cheap. However, it has long been a wine that seems permanently stuck in a root day: green and herbaceous on the nose, Loire meets Pomerol on the palate. Quite simply, I don’t think the Cabernet Franc achieved full…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 1999 Dom Pérignon P2 is one of the most intriguing Champagnes I have tasted from Dom Pérignon in recent years. In fact, it was not included in a small vertical I tasted at the estate in March, but rather this is a bottle I tasted with friends in London. According to Chef de Caves…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good ruby-red. Cool, medicinal aromas of cassis, black cherry, licorice, graphite and herbs. Leanish and tight; primary but a bit youthfully hard despite possessing good intensity. Hints of spice, leather and fresh herbs. Finishes firmly tannic, fresh and dry.