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Vinous Table: Marino Ristorante, Hollywood, CA (Jun 2018)

The 1988 Krug makes for a fabulous start. Tasted from a perfect bottle, the 1988 remains bright and focused, with all of the energy of this great vintage very much on display. Time has naturally softened some of the contours and added a good bit of nuance, but the 1988 Krug remains a Champagne of…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

(note reprinted from Issue 93) Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru has a lot of reduction on the nose, which compromises terroir expression. It is difficult to tell how much is behind it. The palate is sapid and a bit chewy in style—a “solid” Les Cazetiers. It is not flattering at the moment, but there is plenty of substance…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good ruby-red. Spicy, slightly roasted red berry, tobacco and black olive aromas. Supple, vinous and nicely delineated; shapely and approachable for this wine. Good ripe finish.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deeper red-ruby color. Less expressive, less obviously ripe aromas of redcurrant, blueberry, smoke and game. Then silky and soft in the mouth, with insinuating flavors of plum, raspberry, woodsmoke, minerals and flowers. Firm but perfectly integrated acidity gives this wine good shape and cut. Finishes with tongue-coating but supple tannins and subtle flavor. In the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Echo de Lynch Bages felt rather overdone on the nose, fig and prune-tinged black fruit that lack definition and elegance. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin, plenty of tobacco-infused black fruit with a rather austere and straight-laced finish that is the archetypal English gentleman’s claret. It feels a little hollow. I cannot…