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1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Red-ruby. Expressive nose combines currant, roast coffee, chicory, underbrush and smoke. Suave yet penetrating in the mouth, with complex flavors of redcurrant, iron, minerals, smoke and tobacco. Finishes with dusty tannins and excellent length, though there still some acidity to be absorbed. This is showing well now, though its slightly more advanced aromatics suggest it…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo is a very pretty wine loaded with complexity. Macerated cherry, dried herbs, mint, sage and orange peel lend notable aromatic presence. There’s terrific depth here. At the same time the aromas are a bit forward, so I would prefer to drink this on the early side. The only question mark for me…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a delightful bouquet with green apple, nectarine, and subtle wet pavement scents, quite generous in style with a hint of praline. The palate is taut and fresh, with very fine tension. It is one of the most citric cuvées from Sauzet with a flinty, slightly reductive finish,…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2002)

Deep, dark red with a faint ruby edge. Slightly jammy but fragrant aromas of ripe red and black berries, cedar and chocolatey oak. Smooth, polished and long, with pristine but rather restrained raspberry and dark cherry fruit flavors framed by assertive caramel/vanillin oak and slightly green-edged tannins. Finer, more restrained and elegant than typical for…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Cheval Blanc flirts with perfection, this perhaps the best bottle that I have drunk. Incredible delineation on the nose, pixelated red fruit so vibrant and poised, with underlying hints of pencil box and forest floor. This just blossoms in the glass. The palate is very complex and refined, perfectly poised, layers of graphite-infused…

2023 Burgundy Supplement (Feb 2025)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is interesting to taste, as it is starting to move into its next phase of life. Some of its early richness has softened, revealing an airy, taut white endowed with notable precision. Dried lemon peel, sage, mint, pine and crushed rocks open nicely in the glass. There’s lovely subtlety and…