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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Barton has a seductive and beautifully composed bouquet with ample brambly red fruit, sous-bois and light pencil shavings scents. This has real finesse. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, a keen line of acidity and more salinity than its peers. What feels like top-quality new oak smooths the finish but…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(5.1 g/l total acidity; 12.9% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Enticing aromas of blackcurrant, coffee liqueur, minerals and ink. Sweet, rich and ripe on the palate, with dark berry, plum and cedar flavors. Finishes clean and quite persistent, with lovely saline and dark berry nuances. Not a blockbuster but very classic Bordeaux with a refined mouthfeel and…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Vin de Constance is limpid silver-gold in the glass. It has a bouquet of acacia honey, marmalade and pressed yellow flowers, plus a slight adhesive note in the background; I cannot recall a Vin de Constance with such intense aromatics. The palate is viscous on the entry, and a vital bead of acidity…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a fabulous, incredibly complete wine that soars out of the glass with explosive structure and vertical lift. The tannins are very much present, but also matched beautifully by the wine’s aromatic intensity and overall drive. Dark macerated cherry, spice, leather, licorice, plum and mocha add darker shades of nuance….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have tasted three times in recent months. It is an excellent vintage for the Saint-Émilion estate. Refined on the nose, black plum mixes with wild strawberry, iron filings (borrowed from Pomerol?) and hints of blood orange, with mocha in the background. A lot is going on…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…