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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Bright red-ruby. Subdued but pure nose offers blueberry, violet, licorice, menthol and grilled herbs. Enters the mouth fresh and clean, then turns austere, with nicely integrated acidity framing delicate dark berry and herbal flavors. Finishes firm and fresh, with fine-grained tannins and a hint of herbaceousness. A juicy, brisk, classic Bordeaux red with no shortage…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 d’Issan is dark and beautifully layered in the glass. Plum, crème de cassis, leather, herbs and cloves open up in in a silky, polished wine that impresses with its balance and overall poise. The d’Issan is a bit dark for Margaux, but that is a detail; the 2012 is a gorgeous wine in…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Haut-Bages Libéral is vibrant and also quite closed in on itself, which is probably a good thing for the medium term. Smoke, gravel, smoke, anise, tobacco and intense red-fruit notes are front and center. I would give the 2014 a few years in bottle to shed some tannins, but I imagine the wine…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Haut-Bages-Libéral has a lifted bouquet, quite floral in style with black cherries and a touch of cassis. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit tinged with graphite, moderate length with a slightly blunt finish. To be honest, it is not my favourite Haut-Bages Libéral in recent years. Tasted blind at the annual…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good full color. Lively, thoroughly ripe aromas of redcurrant, sweet butter, minerals and spices. A step up in concentration from the last two wines; full and sweet, with a mineral pungency brightening the fruit. Offers lovely finishing sweetness and dusty, ripe tannins that reach more of the mouth. Very rich but graceful wine.

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium-deep red-ruby. Cabernet-dominated aromas of cedar, tobacco, tar and game. Then soft, plump and plummy in the middle, with a note of tobacco. My enthusiasm was somewhat muted by a dry edge to the tannins that was not apparent last year. In ’99, noted Aramon, Figeac used new oak cuves to vinify 50% of the…