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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

(300) Deep ruby-red. Brooding, multidimensional aromas and flavors of blackberry, minerals, flowers, spices, chocolate and musky earth. Silky and utterly spherical, yet with superb definition and lift carrying straight through to the finish. This titillates all the taste receptors of the palate. A wine of great purity and precision, finishing quite powerful, with firm but…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2005 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, if that’s not good enough, was poured en magnum. It has a heavenly bouquet with intense red fruit: wild strawberry, morello cherry, freshly tilled loam and crushed stone. Crystalline. The palate is perfectly balanced with unerring structure and precision, perhaps in a larger format, more linear than expected, with beguiling…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is beguiling on the nose with pure beautifully defined red fruit that soars from the glass. Real sophistication and utterly absorbing. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins very focused and harmonious. Precise, complex, engaging hints of Earl Grey infuse the red fruit on the finish that is so refined….

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavie was tasted on two occasions. The first was from bottle at the château, where I felt it was quite sauvage and displayed more brettanomyces than I remembered. It was a peculiar showing. Then I tasted a magnum back in the UK, and this chimed more with previous bottles. Blackberry and crème de…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(bottled in March of 2003) Good full medium ruby. Knockout nose of blackberry, espresso, licorice, minerals and burnished oak; offers terrific verve and clarity for a wine so ripe and rich. Then extremely youthful on the palate, with tightly wound flavors and great inner-mouth energy. Brilliant black fruit and mineral flavors offer compelling perfume. This…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a sweet and quite candied bouquet, plush in style, more like a 2022 than a 2021! Quite sensual, if just missing some complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins that exert just the right amount of grip. Good density, though not overpowering, this delivers a pleasing…