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2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Bright dark red. Deep aromas of black cherry and chocolatey torrefaction show an almost candied ripeness. Broad, sweet and large-scaled, with a saline quality and impressive medicinal reserve to the floral and spice flavors. A rather powerful and ripe yet sappy Clos Saint-Jacques with a slowly mounting, seamless, horizontal finish featuring big, ripe tannins and…

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts is easily the most reticent and tannic of the three Vosne 1er Crus I tasted. Firm tannins provide the backdrop for an intense, structured Burgundy that will require considerable patience. Iron, smoke, tobacco and dark red fruits inform the incisive finish. The massive tannins will require time to fully soften.

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(from purchased wine): Bright red, a bit less saturated than the Suchots and Beaux Monts. Slightly reduced aromas of raspberry, strawberry and underbrush are accented by a note of blood orange. Juicy and sharply delineated, with strong stony minerality giving grip to the dark berry and soil flavors. Classy, vibrant and light on its feet,…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(100% merlot) Ruby-red. P erfumed aromas of blackcurrant, plum, mocha, plus a suggestion of graphite. Supple, suave and quite dry; in a distinctly restrained style, with musky oak and mineral elements currently dominating primary red fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and long, but I would have liked a bit more clarity and lift.