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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep purple-ruby. Pungent floral and spice notes enliven complex aromas of dark plum, cocoa and minerals. Large-scaled and juicy, with lively acidity giving sharp definition to the uncommonly deep, pure flavors of black fruits, forest floor and dark spices. The impressively ripe, powerful finish features youthfully chewy tannins and outstanding persistence. This big boy will…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2009 Latour has an open and generous bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit and touches of graphite and loam. This vintage displays a light marine/brine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a firm grip and superb balance. This is very focused, with impressive salinity on…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru has a ripe, pure, lifted bouquet with red cherries, blueberry and light violet scents. There’s nicely integrated oak, though it doesn’t quite deliver the clarity of Faiveley’s Les Saint-Georges. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins. It is a little low in acidity, quite fleshy and…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Rauzan-Ségla is fabulous. Inky, rich and explosive, the 2018 offers tremendous depth and soaring intensity. Super-ripe red cherry, cedar, tobacco, mint and spice all build over time, framed by incomparably silky, polished tannins. Today, the 2018 is dense and packed. I expect it will develop into a stunning Margaux in another 10-15 years…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Rauzan-Ségla has a sublime bouquet of black cherries, violet and lavender, all beautifully defined and focused. The oak is seamlessly enmeshed both here and on the palate. The graphite-tinged black fruit is framed by very fine tannins and matched with a perfect bead of acidity. There is an abiding symmetry about this Rauzan-Ségla…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild clearly has a fresher bouquet than the Clerc Milon or Armailhac: copious black fruit, cedar, graphite and violet scents soar from the glass, entrancing with beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite poised and less ferrous than some of its peers. Mint and veins of dark chocolate are…