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2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(aged in neutral demi-muids) Brilliant ruby. Expressive red fruit, potpourri and smoky mineral scents show impressive definition and pick up a suggestion of incense with aeration. Stains the palate with sweet, sharply defined raspberry, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors energized by juicy acidity. Densely packed but lively as well, finishing with excellent clarity, sneaky tannins…

Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By (Aug 2024)

The 2022 Pouilly-Vinzelles Climat Les Longeays has a complex bouquet demonstrating why it is currently being considered for Premier Cru status. It’s pretty mineral-driven. Wild mint and sea spray notes surface with time in the glass. The palate is nicely balanced with stem ginger on the entry. The 2022 shows fine weight and is tangy…

Some Great Reward: South Africa (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Granum comes from the estate’s best, stoniest sites, containing around 30% Mourvèdre, and was matured entirely in puncheons and concrete vats rather than barriques. It has a tight-knit bouquet at first, offering blackberry, briar, fennel and light seaweed/marine scents that lend more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite saline…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright, dark red. Tight nose hints at blackberry, black cherry, licorice and violet, along with a medicinal menthol reserve. Dense, sappy and imploded, with black fruit flavors currently dominated by rather muscular minerality. This very rich but distinctly rectilinear wine is less refined than Boillot’s 2013s from Gevrey-Chambertin and its substantial building tannins will require…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright, dark red. Medicinal black cherry complicated by clove and white flowers on the nose. Intensely flavored and supple, with a fine-grained texture giving the mid-palate a creamy quality for the year. This has very good concentration but the serious dusty tannins currently clamp down on the finish. Should evolve slowly.

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Medium red. Musky redcurrant, strawberry, dried plum and woodsmoke on the nose. Supple red fruit and spice flavors display a liqueur-like thickness of fruit and a pliant texture. Not quite as impressively on the slightly edgy, moderately persistent back end. (Gaunoux releases his wines later than most, and 2009 is the most recent vintage in…