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Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

One of the highlights in this range, the 2006 Amour de Deutz is powerful and intense, but also quite elegant. Lemon confit, brioche, smoke, vanillin, chamomile, pastry and baked apple are some of the signatures. The 2006 is a bit more tightly wound than the 2007 tasted alongside it. Another year or more in bottle…

Ridge Monte Bello Revisited: 1968 – 2012 (Jul 2016)

Ridge’s 1996 Monte Bello is an absolute stunner. The bouquet evokes a top Left Bank Bordeaux in a great vintage. Not surprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1996 is very high at 80%. Every bit as compelling on the palate, the 1996 simply exudes class. I am not sure words alone can capture just how…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Explosive aromas of red fruits, musky game and animal fur. Round, fresh and suave, with compelling sweetness of fruit and density of texture. For all its richness, this is impressively pure and fresh. Finishes with terrific juicy lift. It’s hard to imagine that most of these 2005s won’t shut down in the…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good dark red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, mocha and complex soil tones. Offers superb thickness of texture for the vintage but very restrained today, showing a strong sappy, saline character but little in the way of easy sweetness. Less detailed at present than the Combe aux Moines but this is fatter and riper. The saline…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and brooding in its youthful state, offering up a seductive bouquet of dried cherries, currants, cloves and dusty flowers, like opening a cedar incense box lost many years ago. It coasts silken waves of textural red berries and liquid florals across a core of bright acids, becoming…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2013 Barolo Le Vigne Sibi et Paucis, the Sandrone library release of the 2013, is an infant. That’s the good news. Even better, it is developing at a snails’ pace. Bright red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white flowers and white pepper lend brightness. Readers will have to be patient though, as the 2013 is nowhere…