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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion can surpass even Haut-Brion these days, but on this occasion, juxtaposed against its sibling, it must accept a silver medal. That’s not to infer it is nothing less than a brilliant Pessac. Taking time to open, it has an elevated bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, white pepper and a hint…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion is hands-down the greatest of this era, and if one takes consistency into account, it is slipping past the 1989 Haut-Brion. Deep in color with only faint bricking on the rim, it has a breathtaking bouquet of intense blackberry, black truffle, black olive and incense. It is the precision that…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red with some amber at the rim. Knockout nose combines tobacco, warm stones, minerals, menthol and burning woodsmoke. Wonderfully dense, silky and sweet, but there superb underlying acidity and tannic structure to buttress the wine flesh. Haut-Brion is widely considered to be the wine of the vintage, but in my experience La Mission is…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Meursault Clos des Bouchères 1er Cru is well defined on the nose, taut and fresh, offering honeysuckle and pressed yellow flower mixed with grilled hazelnut scents. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. This is a beautifully balanced 2017, fresh and saline with ample terroir expression toward the finish….

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

Tasted in components, as usual. #1, from Peleat: spice-accented cherry and blackberry, with a vibrant mineral note in the background. Taut and sharply focused, showing strong tension to the bitter cherry and red berry flavors. The mineral note comes back strong on the back. #2, from Les Beaume: deep-pitched cherry and cassis qualities, plus a…

Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond (Feb 2023)

Sweet spices, autumnal leaves, wild strawberries and white smoke hints make the 2019 Colore a total pleasure on the nose. This is wildly energetic and spry with tart wild berries accelerated by zesty acidity. Its fruits are crisp and pure, driven by saline minerality and exotic spices. The 2019 finishes lightly structured and buzzing with…