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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Rather unforthcoming nose hints at redcurrant and cedar, along with a faint herbaceousness. Strong in extract and high in acidity, but today the wine flesh and fruit are dominated by its structure and grip. A marginally disappointing showing for Lafite, in which herbaceous hints and lack of flesh give the wine a slightly…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

A week after tasting it from bottle, I re-tasted the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild from imperial. This has greater purity on the nose, perhaps less sauvage with vivacious red fruit, though cedar and allspice traits still come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with those same pliant tannins that lend this First Growth such fluidity. This…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Winemaker Eric Kohler told me that the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild suffered blockage due to summer heat. This ex-château bottle has a lovely nose with melted dark chocolate, underbrush, cedar and allspice mixed into the mature red fruit, just a tiny bit sauvage. The palate is medium-bodied and quite savoury on the mid-palate, with supple tannins, dried…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Ruby-red with a pale rim. Initially closed nose opens slowly with aeration to offer delicate blackcurrant and mineral aromas complicated by a touch of field herbs. Then richer and deeper on the palate, with flinty blackcurrant, raspberry and herbal flavors carrying nicely through the aftertaste. The chewy, peppery tannins have smoothed out nicely with age….

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep red-ruby. Somewhat more evolved aromas of redcurrant, roasted coffee and smoked meat. Silky and lush in the mouth, but with less intensity and charm than the ’96. Seems a bit monolithic today. Tannins come across as slightly dry after the ’96.

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent…