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2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, coffee, cocoa and graphite. Dense, sappy and quite dry, with serious acidity giving spine to the flavors of red fruits, coffee, spices and graphite. Not an easy style but sharply chiseled and taut. Finishes with good subtle length. I find this has sneaky concentration and depth.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Duhart-Milon has a more fleshy nose with brambly red fruit, loamy soil, graphite. A mintiness develops with aeration. The palate is savoury in style, firmly in secondary flavours with meat juices, leather and Provençal herbs. It misses freshness on the finish – a rather odd showing. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.

Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany… (Jul 1998)

Dense, nearly opaque purple-ruby. Concentrated, very ripe aromas of black cherry, licorice, sweet blackberry and smoke, with some oak evident but submerged under the intense fruit. Very full and rather powerful on the palate; flavors are fat yet focused, with dense but very round tannins and lowish acidity adding to the sensuous nature of the…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Vivid red. Energetic red fruit, floral and spice scents take on a minerally aspect with air. Silky, seamless and penetrating on the palate, offering appealingly sweet raspberry and cherry flavors that show good depth and a surprisingly airy touch. Deftly blends power and finesse and finishes very long and smooth, with subtle tannic grip and…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Le Carillon d’Angélus is a very pretty wine with plenty of savory and floral overtones from the Cabernets that are especially prominent in the blend. Dried cherry, tobacco, mint and crushed flowers give the wine its lifted, distinctively midweight personality. The Carillon is best described as a second wine from Angélus rather than…

2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The 2015 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino comes together slowly in the glass, requiring a bit of coaxing in its currently-youthful state, opening up to reveal dusty dried florals, pretty strawberry, and crushed stone minerality. Ripe red fruits and spice race across the palate, yet firm up relatively fast, with zesty acids and minerals framing the…