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2003 Vintage Ports (Jan 2006)

Saturated deep ruby. Sweet aromas of black cherry, cassis, licorice, molasses, minerals, toffee and violet. Dense, sweet and pliant, with outstanding precision and depth of flavor. Like the Silval, this boasts a seductively creamy texture. The explosive, mounting finish offers a fine dusting of ripe, suave tannins and great breadth. Deceptively easy to taste today…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium red. Roasted plum, leather and sexy oak scents on the nose. Sweet and harmonious, with fresh acids giving shape to the plum and mocha flavors. Finishes with nicely broad, ripe tannins.

Focus on Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2003)

Full, deep red-ruby color. Sweet, deep aromas of raspberry and chocolatey oak; smells like a wine from a thoroughly ripe year. Silky, fat and impressively concentrated, with compellingly sweet, fruit-driven flavors of raspberry, redcurrant and dried cherry. Here the wine’s oak element has virtually disappeared into its fruit. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and persistent,…

Tuscany 2006 and 2007: A New Golden Age (Aug 2009)

The 2006 Magari (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc) possesses striking notes of graphite, tar, herbs, smoke, black cherries, earthiness and sweet French oak. The 2006 Magari is powerful, expansive and utterly convincing. This is the best Magari yet.

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

Highly complex but reticent nose combines citrus peel, wet stone and spices. Silky on entry, then wonderfully dense and ripe but classically dry in the middle, with outstanding sap and energy to the lemon, stone and violet flavors. As generous and expressive as this is now in the middle palate, it also has terrific spine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Calon-Ségur is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. The nose is actually more attractive than the 1989 tasted alongside, simply because there is more fruit – mulberry, orange blossom, hints of blueberry – along with melted tar and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit of hardness on…