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Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2004 Blanc des Millenaires offers a striking combination of freshness and the complexity that develops in bottle. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper lend aromatic brilliance to this lithe, super-finessed Blanc des Blancs. I have long adored the 2004s from the Côtes des Blancs. The Blanc des Millenaires is another terrific example…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cos d’Estournel has a wonderful bouquet. Compared directly with Montrose, there is a notch more exuberance and precision, with layers of rich but delineated plummy black fruit laced with rose petals and dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There’s a lovely depth of fruit and a sense of symmetry plus…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has an intense nose, leaning slightly more toward black fruit, and is richer and more opulent than its fellow CSJs. Quite dense and tannic, the palate is rich on the entry, with blood orange-infused black fruit and a sweet, solid finish. It still requires 5-7 years in bottle….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Cherbaudes 1er Cru feels a little reduced on the nose at first, but eventually black cherries, iodine and violet aromas begin to make their presence felt. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, strict and linear and perhaps not quite "kicking on" toward the finish, leaving you wanting more. Has it got…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red color. Complex aromas of black cherry, currant, chocolate, herbs, licorice and tobacco leaf. Fairly sweet and dense on the palate, with very good concentration and firm acidity for the year. This is aged in 100% new oak, but the wood is very much in the background. Finishes very long and subtle,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1997 Lafite-Rothschild is certainly one of the better First Growths of this somewhat maligned vintage. Gravel, pencil shavings and light tobacco notes furnish the mature nose that is open-knit and perhaps missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, balanced and conveying some of Lafite’s elegance, yet it does taper quickly on…